First sense this is new to you and buying used you will need it even if just for parts check out you local dealers. That means talk to local tractor owners. I don't care how good of a deal you get is you have to drive an hour each way for part it isn't that good of a deal. As an example, my area. JD dealer good, CaseIH good also supports New Holland and Ford. Both 25 miles. AGCO which covers Massey Ferguson, AC, White, Oliver, MM and a few others is only 12 miles. Parts and service are a joke. May as well be 1200 miles. If you are looking for a work tractor forget what you think you like and do some research. Some tractors while used lightly or just for show parts availability isn't that big of an issue. If you are going to work it some parts for some older tractors are No Longer Available.
Next you need to tell us what you want to do with this tractor. Just mow? Maybe push some snow in the winter? Till a garden? You thought you wanted an 8N. Would that be large enough for the work you want to do if it had live PTO? These are all questions that need to be addressed if you are looking for sound advice. So try to give us a little more info.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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