Silver solder is not what you want. It's too stiff, doesn't flex enough. Soft solder is fine, so is the idea of a copper patch. You CAN do it with an iron but it's got to be a real old time copper iron of at least 3-5 lbs heated till it's glowing. The crack area has to be very clean and tinned well. You aren't going to be able to flow solder into a crack, at least a crack as I would define it, but you can lap over the crack.
Beyond that, Seal All will work and I like the cloth idea over it. So will JB Weld and similar products if you can get it clean enough. I had a Case VAC tank I couldn't get to stop weeping. A bead of JB smoothed with a wet finger and the weep has been stopped for well over 10 years now.
FWIW- a section of rubber fuel line will help reduce the flexing and vibration around the sediment bowl.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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