You'll need to get "some" access to it, probably remove the fuel tank. Using a dull chisel, just tap it in until it turns sideways , then try to grab it with channel locks or vice grips and pull it out. If it falls inside and you can't get it out, just leave it.
Be very careful though, when tapping it in, be sure whatever tool you use doesn't cut through the rim of the plug and gouge the machined surface where it seals against the block. Also the casting behind the plug may be very close to the back of the plug. If it hits something solid, stop beating on it! You'll need to pry it out instead of knocking it in. Remember, cast iron is tough, but it will break! Cylinder liners are thin, any dent will cause disastrous failure! Don't be afraid of it, just use good judgment.
Now, going back with the new plug. Clean, scrape, and sand the machined hole to prep it for the new plug.
Getting a steel or brass plug to drive back in can be extremely difficult if you can't get a straight shot at it, and rarely will this be possible.
Rubber expandable plugs are OK, just somewhat temporary. If you use rubber, be sure the hole is completely dry, free of oil and coolant.
There is a copper expandable plug that works great. It requires a light tap to get in, then tighten the acorn nut to expand it. Completely permanent, lasts longer than a steel replacement.
If you use steel, brass, or copper expandable, seal it with some #2 Permatex or equivalent.
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Today's Featured Article - Uncle Cecil's Super A Lives Again - by Mike Purcell. A week or so out of most of my childhood summers was often spent with my Uncle Cecil and Aunt Sissie in the small East Texas town of Maydelle on their 80 acre farm. Some of my fondest memories of these visits are those of learning to drive a tractor at the helm of Uncle Cecil’s 1948 Farmall Super A. Uncle Cecil was the second owner of this wonderful little tractor, but it was almost as though he had adopted an infant. The original owner was a man from Minnesota who bought her from a local dea
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