What has worked for me is to first start the tractor out of gear and let it warm up a bit so it will start up again really easy. Then shut it off and put it in a low gear or reverse, depending on which way you have to go. Then start it up again, in gear (you might have to defeat the safety switch) and drive it around a while with the clutch pedal depressed. Be very careful, because you may not be able to stop the tractor without shutting off the engine. Usually the clutch will break free fairly soon and then I slip it a bit to try to polish the rust off the mating surfaces.
If that does not do the job, you might try putting a load on the tractor. Doing a little plowing with a moldboard plow or a box blade should break things loose. But again, be careful, since the tractor will be hard to stop until the clutch breaks loose.
If a tractor, or for that matter any vehicle is going to sit for any length of time, it is a good idea to leave it with the clutch pedal depressed all the way somehow. An old clevis works good on Ford hundred series.
If a clutch gets stuck really bad, it might be necessary to do something mechanically to get it loose, from opening up the bell housing on some machines, to a full split on some tractors. But usually they will break free by using them, at least in my experience. Good luck!
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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