Posted by Steve@Advance on October 10, 2014 at 11:41:50 from (108.245.66.82):
In Reply to: OT: scout posted by Finnbair2020 on October 10, 2014 at 08:29:44:
Carb problems.
The too fast idle when cold is a simple adjustment. If it's auto choke, there will be a fast idle cam that has an adjustment screw. Back it off to the proper fast idle. There is also a choke pull off diaphragm, a vacuum actuated device that slightly opens the choke when the engine starts. It can be inside the black choke cover, or under the air cleaner, depending on the carb model.
If it's manual choke, find the fast idle adjustment and back it off.
Then there is a warm idle adjustment. It will be an idle speed adjustment against a fixed stop that sets the main idle speed.
There are also idle mixture screws. Turn each in slowly until it runs rough, then back out to smooth, then 1/8 to 1/4 more. Try to get both the same.
The stalling and not starting could be the accelerator pump not working. Looking down inside the carb, engine off, you should see a 2 streams of fuel squirt each time the throttle is operated. It must begin to squirt the same instant the throttle is beginning to open. There is an external linkage adjustment to an arm that operates the pump diaphragm on the front of the carb.
Those carbs (either a Holley or Autolite) were prone to leak fuel both internally through the power valve, and externally through the accelerator pump diaphragm. If it's a Holley they leak around the bowl gasket, especially if it has been sitting.
Internal leakage will show as rich running, black smoke, and excessive cranking when cold from the the bowl being empty, and hard warm start from flooding.
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