Option #1 : 6013 has the softest arc and least penetration. My preference is 5/64 " diameter as they have just enough strength to not flex all over the place like a noodle. If you welder is DC then run the stinger - and the ground clamp +. Otherwise will still work okay on AC. 1/16" diameter is smaller yet but I hate all 1/16" diameter rods except 7014. That said you can cut 1/16" diameters in half to help with the flexing.
Option #2: Use the fast freeze properties of 6011. They do make a 1/16" diameter 6011, but 6011 is a no contact rod and trying to maintain a half a rod diameter rod gap on such a tiny rod diameter that is flexing everywhere can be difficult. Plus 6011 is deep penetrating so move fast. I usually have better luck with 6013.
Option 3: 1/16 diameter 7014 is tolerable of all the 1/16" diameter rods and actually burns pretty decent. That said it may not be able to weld quite as thin as the other 2 choices.
Stick process is not really suited for welding metal thinner than 16 gauge (1/16" thick). Seasoned pros can sometimes do 18 gauge. Regardless you have to be damn goo to weld metal this thin with stick process.
Best choice on metals 26 gauge to 10 gauge is usually a decent mig welder. (and I am not talking those $99 cheapos as those are not worth spit. There are some affordable wire feeders for not all that much more money).
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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