We dont have much OM this far south. We stay warm enough to decompose things quickly. Most soils here are in that 3% range. Some better bottom ground might get up to the 5 range on OM.
I'm like you in realizing that strip-till sounds good but isnt feasible on hobby acreage. Not only is the rig expensive but so is the tractor that has enough ponies to pull it. Applying my nutrients in narrow bands at 5" deep is about the only way I could imagine to somewhat mock that strip=till practice of getting the nutrients down where they belong in the root zone.
Zone building for soil structure reasons isn't a huge concern here. No-till really works well this far south. We have plenty of soil warmth in the spring to get emergence. Really I prefer a stale seedbed or total no-till here in case of a rain. Worked soil is actually somewhat of a risk here. Because of our low OM crusting is an issue. No-till really saves us from that.
If you have any pointers on my plans please feel free to share. This is a new practice for me so I'll take whatever thought you might have.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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