You should have a HOT, BLUE spark that will jump half an inch or more. If you do not, then your problem is in the ignition. I have seen failures in the coil and ignition pickup in the distributor.
Technically, the pickup in the distributor is called a PIP sensor. Early ones were housed in a black rubber compound that deteriorated over time. They were later replaced with a light tan colored one. Also, check the resistance of the coil primary. If it is out of range, it will cause a no-spark or weak spark condition.
While we are at it, don't forget that there are other things that will make an engine refuse to start besides spark. Compression and fuel are the big ones. Spark needs to be at the right time, compression will tell you if the timing chain or gears have failed.
The short answer is that there is no short answer. .
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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