Going back to your original problem of it not starting after shutting down. You say it ran fine after you got it started again so that leaves out plugged return. You could take the timing cover off though just to be sure and check for tiny bits of plastic that would be coming from the elastocast ring. Not starting hot is usually one of two things. First is worn out rotor which is bad news, other is loose plug that seals delivery valve( delivery valve, not metering valve). It is in the end of the rotor and requires taking the transfer pump off the end to get to it . Normally on repairing a pump the delivery valve stop( which is the actual seal) is replaced with new and the nut it torqued to specs. Once it starts leaking it may not seal by just tightening the nut,(screw). Might want someone familiar with pumps to check that though. Normally if you take a pump into a diesel facility for repair they will not run a pre test as it can contaminate their system, soooooo, you might well not know if they cured a problem or not if they don't test it before tearing it down.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Allis-Chalmers Model G - by Staff. The first Allis-Chalmers Model G was produced in 1948 in Gasden, Alabama, and was designed for vegetable gardeners, small farms and landscape businesses. It is a small compact tractor that came with a complete line of implements especially tailored for its unique design. It featured a rear-mounted Continental N62 four-cylinder engine with a 2-3/8 x 3-1/2 inch bore and stroke. The rear-mounted engine provided traction for the rear wheels while at the same time gave the tractor operator a gre
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