Hard to say about the shuttering. May be the torque converter; may not. Before I went and cast blame on the transmission having a problem, make sure you don't have any check engine lights on indicating a misfire condition from a bad coil pack or spark plug. If you do have the spark plugs changed, be warned that they're is a special procedure for changing them to help eliminate the possibility of them blowing out in the future. This procedure can be found on the internet and was an actual Ford Technical Service Bulletin years ago, but it goes somewhat like this. First the truck engine needs to be at ambient temperature (cold). After removing the coil packs, the holes that the plugs are down in need to be blown out with compressed air. After removing the plugs, gap and install new OEM Motorcraft plugs with anti-seize on the treads and torque them to 13 to 17 INCH POUNDS. The torque on these plugs is very critical. If you don't believe in the use of a torque wrench this is not the job for you and you will be asking for possible problems later. Reinstall coil packs and hope for another 100K worry free miles!!
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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