I recall doing one on a 1600 Oliver without going inside the rear end. Welding a couple bolts to the bearing and using a slide hammer works to remove the bearing. Then weld a bead all the way around the inside of the race. It should shrink and be able to be removed. If it is still tight use the bolt method again. You will have to pound in the new race. Race punches are very handy for that. The bearing can be pounded on if you are careful. I prefer to put them in a toaster oven and heat to about 400 degrees. It should expand enough to slide right on the axle. Oil it well after it cools. The lost rollers can do a lot of damage though. I am working on a MM M602 right now that the inner axle bearing rollers wrecked both bull pinions and bull gears.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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