Lot of variables, and specifics to your location and conditions. How wet is the ground, enough to leave tracks or show some mud/water ? I've cut and baled in those conditions, not soft enough to rut, but soft enough to pump a little water up. One field has some springs in it, so if its been wet those areas will remain moist, the hay was tough to dry in those areas, but left in the swath, up on the stubble longer is what helped. Mind you, there were some bales with a bit excess moisture, areas I skipped with the NH 315 and left for the round baler with the propionic acid applicator.
We followed the same routine, cut on the 1st, leave in the swath until day 2, which could be morning or later in the day, then ted at that time. That will take you to the 3rd day when it would be raked when the dew was off, sometimes there may not be a heavy dew, so you could rake earlier. By afternoon its ready to bale on the 3rd day.
Dry grass hay can still be a widely varying crop to dry, from field to field, crop type, heavy leafy grasses, stalky or thick 2nd cut, oat grass hay, the latter 2 can be difficult to dry with the above methods.
I've cut, tedded and raked per the above, in ideal conditions, facing the sun, nice breeze, low humidity, and still had moisture problems with some crops. Some of that was just ground moisture, as the hay was down long enough, but you had to play the game with raking so that the bottom was up or dries, then bale as much of it as you can. Problem was with whatever was not baled, took on ground moisture, and even in ideal drying conditions, it just won't dry to acceptable levels. Adjacent field was clover and grasses, 2nd cut, and was completely dry, in this area, just the field can make all the difference. It was interesting when I got off the tractor and stacked behind the thrower, you could tell what was what as it came in and how it related to ground moisture, as it matched the wet areas.
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