My first car was an air cooled VW and I have had many over the years. I still rebuild them and use the advice my friend gave me when I was 13. If you think it is running hot, spit on it. If it sizzles it is too hot. Head temps on air cooled run 350 normally, so don't spit there. The block is a good indicator. I've only had one get hot in all of my years and it was my own fault. The timing wasn't set right.
If the flow of air isn't obstructed and the timing is set right you won't be able to overheat it. Think of your lawnmower. If the cooling fins are clean she will run just fine on a 100 degree day.
Back in the day I always put cylinder head temp gauges from JC Whitney on all of my engines to monitor them. They weren't expensive and were only mechanical so fairly foolproof. I'd image you should be able to get the same now. I have four old VWs left. I only drive them on nice days. Funny how when you can afford a car with A/C you don't seem to be able to be without it!
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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