I have a Mahindra Maxx25. Steel hood and fenders. Good solid castings. bought it new June 2013 paid 16500 with FEL and Mid Mount mower. Hydrostatic with hi and low range. Hi range is pretty much useless except for mowing and transport. Low range is a tough workhorse. With the deck on the lack of clearance renders the tractor pretty much useless for any purpose off the lawn. Deck is drive over but you still don't want to change it unless you have to. You need to be aware that on some SCUTs you must turn your cat 1 3pt pins to face each other. Mahindra is wide enough to work normally. Mine was built in Japan, uses a 3 cylinder Mitsubishi engine. Tires wheels are Titan, Made in USA, attachments are also American made. I hava a bit over 200 hours and so far zero problem, I did a serious clean up under a barn that had many years of build up in the calf pen. probably 3 ft deep in places. Surprised the hell out of me, under that garden tractor exterior lives a serious working machine!
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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