You are so right. The same reason they don't use stainless bolts and nuts or brass/bronze where it would make removal easier like on exhaust parts. Costs and time.
The same reason I am dealing with a problem now. Our 2005 Camry needs new CV shafts. The older types have a castellated nut and cotter pin or nut with a stamped castellated cover and cotter pin. Now there is just a modified nut with a protrusion that has to be uncrimped from a groove to remove it. So no hole to drill or cotter pin to or slot to align at the factory. They just torque it and crimp the nut at the groove.
The problem arises with removal. None of the loaner sockets for the nut were the right size or were only 6 point. The nut has 12 points. I had to buy a deep socket at an outrageous price.
Fortunately the replacement shaft has a 6 point nut and they did have the right loaner socket.
So it has cost me several additional hours of lost time to save the manufacturers two minutes if that much plus my expense of a 12 point socket. Luckily I found one that was $14 and not $18-35.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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