You have to do a really, really good job with your rough grade under ridgid foam. If you don't the foam will bridge and leave pockets, which will lead to cracks in your floor. There are products out there that are like concrete blankets that will follow any uneveness in your rough grade to support your floor better. I have seen instances where styrofoam was used, and very heavy point loads were in floors, (town hyw. plow trucks loaded with sand and heavy plows, that colapsed the styrofoam under the concrete. You also need to pay perticular attention to floor drains, and how you route your radiant tubeing AROUND them. You don't need an extreamly high R value under the floor, but it does need to have a very good vapor barrier. Moisture will wick away the heat without good vapor protection. I am a retired contractor and built a good number of Ag and comercial steel buildings with radiant heat in them. Also make sure you isolate the aprons with a vertical frost barier protruding to finish level, between floor and aprons, and string the tubing closer together in front of overhead doors. A good R 10+ vertical frost barier at least 2' deep, around the perimiter of the building is also necessary. We used 2" ridgid styrofoam there. The tubeing in the pics is 7/8" supplied by Radiant Tech Inc., Lyndonville VT., who designed and provided materials and controls for our heating systems. Loren, the Acg.
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Today's Featured Article - An AC Model M Crawler - by Anthony West. Neil Atkins is a man in his late thirties, a mild and patient character who talks fondly of his farming heritage. He farms around a hundred and fifty acres of arable land, in a village called Southam, located just outside Leamington Spa in Warwickshire. The soil is a rich dark brown and is well looked after. unlike some areas in the midlands it is also fairly flat, broken only by hedgerows and the occasional valley and brook. A copse of wildbreaking silver birch and oak trees surround the top si
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