I'm still thinking at least some of the timing parts have been replaced. I found a good sized chunk of chain guide in the pan that will only fit one spot on one guide. That piece is not missing in my engine.
I did pressurize the oil system with air and oil and didn't see or hear anything coming out of or around the tensioners. I definitely checked after my last post.
As far as I can tell there isn't a visible gasket in there. I looked on rockauto.com and see two styles of tensioner. A plastic one with a molded o ring style gasket and a cast iron with a smooth back which I assume seals metal to metal or maybe a dab of rtv. I've got the cast iron. I can definitely see where that plastic one could cause some problems.
My theory is it had issues before and the chains, guides, and/or tensioners were replaced. The damage was done to the cams and they finally wore to the point it couldn't make oil pressure with hot oil at idle.
Just curious....what would you say would be a "normal" oil pressure at hot idle for this engine?
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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