Pressurized rather than splash lube systems are filtered and boast 30 degrees with no problems, one would assume on a full crankcase....I keep mine full just in case. My take is by using synthetic oil, if I go dry for a bit, it won't matter as the film will last through the dip, hill, or whatever. My pond dams are right at 30 on the dam side and some places more than that. I mow lengthwise as I have obstructions at the bottom of the dam which prevent vertical mowing. Been doing it for about 30 years now and have had no problems.
Back in 1988 I had a Ford F150 305 (30 something cubic inch V8....5 liter). I used the multigrade dino oil specified for it and kept the oil and filters changed regularly. Every time I changed oil, even having run the truck prior to the change and always filling the filter till full (takes several times adding oil to get it full), I would always get a dry valve rattle just before the oil pressure gauge started to register.
When I decided to use syn oil, I think it was Mobil 1 and I know it was the same viscosity. Never had the rattle again using the same fill techniques drain intervals, and driving habits. That sold me on syn.
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Today's Featured Article - Box Plow Blues - by Tom Schwarz. One of the first implements most tractor owners obtain is the box plow. For very little money, this piece of equipment promises to plow and flatten any hill or vale on your ranch road or farm. At least that's what I thought! As simple as a box plow appears, it can be rather challenging to make work correctly. In our sandy soils of Florida, traction is king. You can never have wide enough tires or heavy enough weights to get all the traction you want … unless you own a monster tractor. U
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