Hi, we were an IH farm but in my youth I drove the neighbors MF35 and 135 a fair bit. Both his were 3 cyl Perkins Diesels. The 35 had live PTO but no PS. The 135 had both live PTO and PS. For mowing I would look for a tractor with live PTO and PS would be a desirable option. One thing you learned very quickly driving the 35 without PS is to keep only the palms of your hands on the steering wheel as if one front wheel hits a stick or a rock the steering wheel will snap left or right and if you fingers are in the way of the steering wheel spokes, OUCH!!. They are a very nice compact tractor but very light on the front end and typically do not have a standard drawbar under the rear diff housing and rely on a drawbar on the 3pt hitch. So be VERY CAREFUL if your are trying to pull trees or rocks with it and keep the 3pt drawbar below the height of the rear axle or put "wheely bars" on it. Several hobby farmers have got killed on these type of tractors by hooking chains to heavy objects with 3pt drawbar to high. Same applies to Ford 8N type tractors. If you are an in-experienced tractor driver and its rough hilly terrain spent a few extra $$ and put a roll bar on the tractor as it may save your life someday.
Take a look at this youtube video and see what not to do: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_hzhCe4rWs
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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