Standard recommendation is to use the same oil in the air cleaner as in the crankcase, based on expected temperatures. You don't say how cold it was in your shed, but 15W-40 should be OK down to 0 degrees F. If the oil is thin enough for the engine to crank, it should not be restricting the intake enough to cause a problem.
You say it "flooded up". Do you mean gas poured out of the carb? That's not necessarily due to a restricted intake.
By "5W", I assume you mean a multi-grade oil, such as 5W-30, not straight-weight SAE 5 oil. (I don't even know where you can get straight SAE 5 motor oil.) I've had problems starting my tractor in sub-zero temperatures (~ -20F) with 15W-40, but 10W-30 seems to work fine. I suggest you stick to using the same oil in the air cleaner and crankcase; if the oil is stiff enough to cause intake restriction, it's probably not circulating through the cold engine very well, either. 10W-30, 5W-30 or 10W-40 should all be fine.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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