Posted by John T on February 07, 2017 at 10:38:27 from (76.4.98.182):
In Reply to: Re: starting issues posted by old on February 07, 2017 at 09:35:15:
Rich, Good afternoon, I have a question for you concerning your statement that..........
"But if the points are closed you are likely to read some voltage, but it is likely to be less then battery voltage or maybe almost no voltage"
Its that part about where you state "or maybe almost no voltage" that I'm asking about, here are my thoughts:
Its my thinking that on an Ignition Switch that's "good" and has battery voltage on its INPUT, WOULDNT YOU READ "NEAR" BATTERY VOLTAGE (versus "maybe almost no voltage" as you state) ON BOTH ITS INPUT AND OUTPUT IF ON REGARDLESS IF POINTS ARE OPEN OR CLOSED ??????? When points are closed it seems to me you should still read "near" battery voltage on BOTH sides of a good switch as he asked, BUT HEY IVE BEEN WRONG BEFORE AND MAY BE AGAIN GRRRRRRRRRRR LOL
He asked about power on the switch, I thought a switch would have power on its INPUT (if properly attached to battery voltage source) and then also the OUTPUT (like to a coil) when switched to ON as that's its job to switch voltage to a load when ON ??
Sure, if a coil draws 4 or so amps there may be a slight voltage drop if the coil draws power via good closed points, but if a switch is good and contacts aren't badly burned and resistive, I would think a switch should have near battery voltage (NOT maybe almost no voltage) on BOTH INPUT and OUTPUT when switched to ON, even if points are closed orrrrrrrrrrrr open.
Just asking, I'm never too old to learn lol help me out
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