We have always had fully Loaded ( Calcium Water) and I feel that # for #, the Calcium gives the best traction and stability.. sure, we add more if we need it..
I have not had to replace or repair even ONE Rim because of corrosion...and I probably average 40 years on a set..
I don't let Locust trees get started, so I have few problems with those Thorns...
In my smaller equipment, the RIDE is better...if I take one with no Load in the tires out on the road, it will rock and roll and keep me slowed down until the flat-spots ( from setting) round back out... The Loaded ones never do this..
Rear tires on the "Loader Tractor" ( JD "B") were always Loaded (To the Top of the Rim) and set wide and made it pretty stable ( within Reason, anyway)..
Actually never saw much of a reason to lighten one up and no problems getting into tight places because of a stack of wheel weights.. May have made deeper ruts where it was wet, BUT..got Stuck far fewer times..
At least Calcium water will only kill grass/weeds Short-term..where anti-freeze is dangerous for any animals and Windshield washer fluid are neither nearly as heavy..
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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