You can get sharpeners of different shapes other than flat or cylindrical. They also come in various materials, such as steel, carbide, abrasive grit, diamond, etc.
First you have to look at the teeth on your blade, then find a sharpener that matches those teeth. Then you simply sharpen the non-smooth side of the blade. For blades with very tiny serrations in them (like many steak knives), don't waste your time doing it the proper way. Instead, do it the NON-proper way and use a flat stone on the flat side. I've seen serrated knives sharpened so much on the flat that the serrations were nearly totally gone.
NOTE: The more you sharpen on the flat, the less effective the serrations will work once sharpened because you are grinding away the teeth. But I'm with Flembo in that there's really no need for anything other than a smooth, sufficiently sharpened blade on a knife. Now a saw blade is a different story, and for different uses.
Anyway, getting back to serrated blades, I've actually taken good-quality serrated or partially-serrated blades and reworked into smooth blades. I still use some of those to this day.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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