The back of the feed chamber on a 273 is adjustable. If your plunger knives are dull they will fold over the uncut hay which adds more hay to the knife side. The easiest adjustment is to loosen the big bolt on the connecting arm (with the big coil spring) that is connected to the plunger and the feed rack. There is an adjustment bolt (after you loosen the big bolt) on the bottom side of that big bolt. Its usually rusted good from nonuse but it doesnt "hold" anything if you break it. You can adjust it so it will move hay lesser or further into the bale chamber. Also if its an old baler with rusted out bottom runs it will actually "hold" more hay into the bottom of the bale. Sometimes the way you feed it will make a difference in bale length. Tighten your chains also. With a manual you can pretty much figure anything out on it.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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