I will also support fixeruppers post. Change it in the fall. My reason has nothing to do with etching or anything like that. Drain the oil from any car/lawn mower/truck/tractor. Put it in a bucket and let it set 4-6 months. Then check that bucket. There will be a lot of deposits on the bottom that have settle out. So transpose that to your parked car/tractor/lawn mower. That same sediment is going to settle to the bottom of the pan and lay there. I would not bet that it all will be stirred up by running the motor for a short time. I think it is much better to change the oil right after the use season. Then store the vehicle/tractor/combine/lawn mower with clean oil in it. Also the oil will have all the additives back up to snuff and that should he preserve the motor while in storage.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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