Defective pressure plate, assembled wrong, just won't release for some unknown reason. The pp can also be damaged, warped during installation. The bolts need to be tightened gradually in a criss-cross pattern.
Clutch disc, installed backward so the springs hit the flywheel bolts. Or the spline is tight, won't let the disc center between the flywheel and pp.
Damaged flywheel surface, warped, heat checked, hot spots, needs to be turned.
Frozen pilot bearing, keeps turning the input shaft even with the clutch released.
Adjustment/linkage problems. The release bearing improperly installed, fingers out of adjustment, release fork out of place, improperly adjusted.
Disc or pilot bearing damaged during installation. Easy to do, letting the engine weight hang on the disc, or forcing the engine in with bolts.
Is it truly not releasing? If it just grinds on initial gear engagement, check the transmission oil level. If the level is low, there is no grease to slow the spinning momentum of the gears.
If it is not even trying to release, and the linkage is adjusted, something is seriously wrong, going to have to go back in...
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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