The best way is to lift it off with the loader on you bigger tractor. If you don't have another tractor with a loader, use your fork lift. If you don't have a forklift, use the gantry in your shop. If you don't have a gantry it pretty much brings you down to a good sized limb on a tree. If no tree limb, three poles lashed together above the tractor, and a chain fall, which is what everybody used to use for pulling motors. A few Ns had loaders which were much easier to remove, which basically needed support just at the rear axle attach point, then you back,(or drag) out. Splitting really isn't all that difficult. Just be sure to use the Hobo NC rear support jack, in order to stay safe.
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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