Free advise for those having trouble bush hogging with an 8N.
A) Know which way your blade spins.
B) Sharpen your blades with a grinder, then finish with a 120 grit belt sander to about 6" in from the end. Plan to do this fairly often, and plan to buy new blades when they get too narrow. I lift my bush hog all the way up with the 3 point, support it with two 2x4s at the tail, and spin the blade so they can be sharpened by bending down and doing it on the spindle. Makes a world of diff, but YMMV.
C) If/when the bush gets pretty heavy, run the tractor half path into the heavy stuff. On most decks, the left side is the leading edge of the rotary and should do the cutting while the retreating side on the right accumulates the detritus.
Sure, having more HP would be faster, deeper, harder, wetter. It can all be done with the 8N, just takes a little longer under heavy load. Live PTO is a moderate hassle, but again - there are ways around it. First lesson is leave the clutch alone! Get the hog spinning in N, push the clutch in, put it in gear, let the clutch out, and don't mess with the clutch anymore. I also take my bucket off the loader, and run the loader all the way up to minimize the load on the front.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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