I've been thinking about this all day and actually went and checked a couple service manuals I have. Chilton manuals all seem to follow your train of thought to bleed working from the bleeder the greatest distance from the master cylinder and work back. The "Motor" brand manual I have for 62-71 truck and diesel which would cover this type of truck did not specify a sequence to follow. I just would not want to try to bleed a wheel on one of these systems if the bleeder on the hydro-vac was trapping a lot of air in that area of the brake system. I would agree that if you are doing a complete system rebuild that all the cylinders should have an initial bleed to remove the trapped air which can be quite a lot on these type of systems with the larger wheel cylinders, then move to a final bleed. I generally tried to do the initial bleed with gravity if possible by opening the bleeder once the shoes and springs were assembled. Keeping the master cylinder full, once the bleeder started flowing I would close it. Well I digress, I will say I agree to disagree on the bleed sequence. Hopefully the OP has the issue solved.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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