Hopefully, when they replaced the tank, they didn't get all the air out. Once the air purged, the level dropped, now it is full and no more problems.
Common places to leak are the plastic adapters where the heater hoses go to the heater core. If they have not been replaced, they are cooked hard and ready to fail. Better to replace them now than on the side of the road!
Also look at the radiator, the front of the tank directly in front of where the upper hose connects. That is a heat concentration area, prone to crack. Look for discoloration from coolant running down. Stop leak will not fix it.
Look at the front of the heads, especially the left side. Known to leak externally. Hard to see, usually shows as a drip on the floor. Stop leak will "sometimes" fix it.
Same with the water pump. If it's leaking, look for coolant dripping from behind the pulley. Sometimes they will leak then stop, then leak again. If you do replace the pump, spend the extra for a GM pump, do it once.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Hydraulics - The Basics - by Curtis Von Fange. Hydraulics was one of the greatest inventions for helping man compound the work he can do. It’s amazing how a little floor jack can lift tons and tons of weight with just the flick of a handle. What’s even more amazing is that all the principals of hydraulic theory can be wrapped up in such a small package. This same package applies to any hydraulic system from the largest bulldozer to the oldest and smallest tractor. This short series will take a look at the basic layout of a simple hydraul
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