Is the engine in or out of the tractor? During a recent overhaul of my Super C with the engine mounted on a stand, I found the best way was to use a pulley installation tool. As an alternative, a threaded rod screwed into the crankshaft, using a heavy duty washer and a nut should pull the pulley on. However, an installation tool usually has some type of a thrust bearing to reduce the friction between the pulley and the washer/nut. Use some type of a lubricant made especially for parts with an interference fit (e.g.Sunnen B200). It does take a lot of force. I don't think heat is the way to go. IMO, applying enough heat to expand the pulley would certainly damage the seal. Don't try to pound it on. I broke the tangs for the hand-crank slot on mine trying that method. Much easier to do if the engine is out of the tractor.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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