Steve ...... interesting comment about the crown up .... if it appears noticeably up when you decide which side is up. If not apparent, the annual rings curve is usually the way to tell for flat boards, ie annual rings crown up (according to some references I have read). But either way doesn't always end up being the end result you want ...... sometimes it works out and other times not. I've had unwanted cupping after putting the crown up and also the annual rings up. For whatever reason, it's a good rule of thumb but not bulletproof in my experience. The warping you mention is for sure an issue, shrinkage I find will happen regardless. Starting with the boards at say 1/8" spacing will end up with 1/4" space or sometimes even more.
My friend has built hundreds of house decks as a business. Once he decides which side is "up", he often cuts a saw kerf (slot) lengthwise on a table saw about 1/2 the thickness of the board (so say 3/4" deep on 1 1/2" lumber decking). His kerf is centered on the board and then he installs saw kerf down. Not necessary on 2x4 decks but he does it on 2x6 jobs. Once he nails or screws those deck boards down, they stay flat and have a tendency to stay flat and not cup. On a trailer deck, I suspect mud and moisture being flung up from underneath might be a bit of an issue with a saw kerf.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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