Posted by oldproudvet on September 30, 2018 at 16:37:44 from (207.191.139.220):
In Reply to: 30 wt oil or 15-40 posted by 37chief on September 30, 2018 at 14:11:06:
I use 15/40 in all my old stuff (not synthetic). I use older Case tractors on my farm, and I want the thinner oil for start up (where almost all wear occurs) and the heavier oil for warmed up temps as the clearances are much different than newer engines. All the newer engines/eqpt/tractors/cars whatever use Mobil synthetic. My 1990 Ford F-350 pick up with a 460 gas engine and a 5spd has over 500,000 miles with the only engine work being 2 timing chains, it still uses no oil Mobil 1 since new. Your oil did not cause your Allis failure. It was ready. So many times seized and scuffed pistons are caused by excess carbon build up behind the upper compression ring leading to blow by where the combustion heat gets by the rings and burns off the lubricating oils...... Very common problem in older tractors with there very basic carbs that run a rich mixture when not working hard (pulling a disc or plow). Just my 2 bits. PS I also like Studebakers, that lets you know where I am........
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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