We didn't have a loader tractor growing up, Grandpa "borrowed" a JD 40 with trip manure bucket from "Doc" Bartz when we needed to clean the barn/spread manure in the grapes every spring. No power steering and a straight vertical steering wheel did not lend to rapid movements, but it beat the heck out of the alternative (ME). Filling our tiny International ground-driven spreader was best done in tiny chunks anyways, since it would plug easily and slip the tires if large gobs were dumped in.
When Doc passed away, he willed the 40 to Grandpa, the last survivor of the neighborhood equipment-sharing group. Grandpa felt it was his duty to buy the tractor from the widow despite what the will said, and paid what the local auctioneer said was decent value. We used that tractor as is for a few years, then moved the loader (Model 5?) over to our 1010- still no power steering, but a slanted steering wheel and dash shifter made it much more comfortable. I sold the 1010/loader to a neighbor when I got the 2630 with newer 520 loader, leaping into the 1970's technology in the early 2000's. He flushed the radiator and never added antifreeze, and the block cracked the first winter. I saw it sell at his estate auction, never flinched once to buy it back. I still use the 40, mostly to mow ditch banks with a sickle mower.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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