Check out WW brand, covered 6x16, tack room, side entrance door just aft of the tack room, center gate, solid floor with antiskid, swingout rear or use half width-slide panel, new tires and wheels - 50 miles on them-used once since installing, running gear (shackles and pins) - couple of hundred miles on it if that, 3500# axles, no brakes as not required here, nor is title for trailers of the sort.....state registration (license plate) current. Trailer is old from a yearmodel standpoint but functional and safe. Slight minor rust. A paint job would make it really attractive, it's already functional. I could round up a spare to go with it, nothing special.
$2000 cash. Take a "snow bird" trip down here, enjoy the warm weather and take it back with you. I could put brakes on the rear axle if needed. Would have to price out the parts, probably would do the labor at no charge.....something to do. Decided that at my age I don't want to get in a corral with a 3000# bull and attempt to show him who thinks they are boss.
Having had 5' and now this 6', big difference in the widths when carrying large bovines. They can turn around in the 6, even when the mid gate is closed but in a 5 they can't.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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