So you need to evaluate the cracked block and determine whether you want it like it is. I've got a D with a cracked block that just seeps oil. Big deal. Lot's of B's have loose flywheels.
My point is you can restore a tractor and enjoy driving and using it without trying to make it absolutely new. There's a lot of life and enjoyment in some of the old stuff that has defects. A lot of guys get H Farmall heads checks and throw them away because they are cracked. It's heat cracks and they've been there for years. It the head isn't leaking through the cracks they're OK to use.
A lot of people can't seem to put something back together that's not absolutely perfect, but unless you are that way, figure out what has to be fixed and get your B back together without breaking the bank. You can enjoy driving it for years with the right attitude.
I've got around sixty old farm tractors but never take them to shows. Too much snobbery, and I've usually got more tractors than the hot shot running everything down.
I make old fashioned brooms a some tractor shows and enjoy asking the JD guys "Why are there more John Deeres in collections than Farmalls?"
"The Farmalls are still working" and it's true. More H's and M's in service than D's, A's and B's.
Enjoy your tractors and don't worry about the other guys.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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