Posted by Blue_Tractor_Man on February 02, 2019 at 13:46:50 from (174.236.143.208):
Back working on my 1967 Kohler L600 flathead 4 cylinder engine. I bought it all new valves because the old exhaust valves were trashed and the old intake valves had rust and pitting. The book calls for the valve guides (cast iron) to be .312 - .313. One of the exhaust valve guides is on the upper edge of that, maybe .3135. The exhaust valve will have .005 clearance, and the book calls for .0025 - .004. So, it is about .001 - .0015 over spec. If it makes any difference, the engine has tappets that push directly up on the valve stem, so that there is no side loading whatsoever. It is an 1800 RPM engine, so it runs relatively slow. Also, since it is an exhaust valve, oil consumption and vacuum leaks won't be a problem. My guess is that in short order, soot will coat the inside of the guide and tighten it up a little. The guide is still available for $20 if the YT brain trust thinks I should replace it. I don't really want to replace that guide if I can avoid it. What do y'all think?
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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