Nice work, Loren! I'm going to file that disc-forming idea away.
I've got another project on the bench, but I'm going to wait until it's a little further along before posting any pictures. Main material is aluminum flashing.
For the poster below that asked about epoxy - In the process of this build, I learned a couple of things about epoxy since aluminum isn't solderable. You must rough up the surface to give it a little "tooth" or the epoxy won't hold. I initially used the clear "5 minute" stuff and as soon as I flexed the joint even a little bit it popped loose.
Thinking good ol' JB Weld would work, I ran into the same problem. It did hold a little better, but not enough to be trustworthy. I had to use 60 grit paper and really crosshatch the surfaces to get it to hold and I still wouldn't bet the ranch on the strength.
The same would hold true for brass. The surface is just too smooth.
Solder is quick, easy with a little practice and the right tools, and very very strong.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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