Nice lineup and glad you are high and dry....I worry about you folks and the bad flooding up there.
I try to run my equipment at least once a month for half an hour more or less, getting the temp up to normal operating. In the winter this means blocking off the radiator with cardboard. One thing it does is to keep sediment in the engine oil in suspension so that when you drain your oil it drains out, rather than pile up as silt on the bottom of the oil pan. Next time you drain your oil stick your finger in the drain hole and rub the bottom of the oil pan.
Case in point, recently bought a 1988 tractor with 900 hrs. Oil was black....was an estate sale and the old guy died off....no telling how long it had been sitting......moving on, first thing I did was to change the oil and filter......put maybe 30 minutes on the new oil, checked the level and it was black again. Drained it out and stuck my finger in the hole and came back with about ¼" of sludge. Put new oil in again and this time put a can of Sea Foam in the crankcase and ran the engine for about 30 minutes at 1000 rpms.
Drained that oil out and the sludge was gone. Put in new oil and filter again, and after 34 hours and counting, the oil has some black streaking, but for the most part is still honey colored.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Hydraulics - The Basics - by Curtis Von Fange. Hydraulics was one of the greatest inventions for helping man compound the work he can do. It’s amazing how a little floor jack can lift tons and tons of weight with just the flick of a handle. What’s even more amazing is that all the principals of hydraulic theory can be wrapped up in such a small package. This same package applies to any hydraulic system from the largest bulldozer to the oldest and smallest tractor. This short series will take a look at the basic layout of a simple hydraul
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