I have ran my 1030 out of fuel and my 930 as well. These old gals can be a bearcat to get going again with just the primer pump. So I don’t count on the fuel gauge anymore, I just put fuel in at the start of the day, or have a quick look into the tank to get an idea. I found the easiest way to restart either one of my tractors is to get my son to tow me while riding on the tractor while in high gear. After a short distance it will pop right off. If it stalls again, just repeat. If you have no one to help you by towing the tractor as I have done. After you put fuel into the tank, and opened the bleeder screws, you can blow some compressed air into the tank with a air tank, or even a hand pump. A length of hose with you blowing through it can work to. Just hold your hand over the fuel fill with the cap off, and hose into the tank through between your thumb and hand, But don’t try to make a perfect seal, it’s ok if some air leaks back out. The pressure you put into the tank will force the diesel through the lines and fill the filters. I have done this , works well.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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