Thank you for the information - so a 1959 Case 420 B, right? That will help when I try to get parts and do maintenance. A friend of mine had given this backhoe to his son-in-law, who drove it into the woods and broke it, tried to fix it, and left it open to the weather for 5+ years. He said I could have it if I could get it to run. I work on old British cars, so he figured I must be nutty enough to try : )
So far I've done some ignition work to get it running, put on a new choke cable, replaced several hydraulic hoses, and replaced the power steering pump. I've also changed the oil and hydraulic fluid.
The engine had ice in #4 piston bore when I first tried to start it. I haven't done a compression test to check the cylinders yet - but it is blowing some exhaust out of the vent on top of the valve cover. The engine once was rebuilt, back in the 1980's and the receipt says they put a used engine block in it from a Case 430. I've added a photo of the serial number on the block - which says "G - 1235" On the cylinder head I think the marking says "C - 1148". From what I read online this is a Case 148 engine, right?
My thought was to check compression in the cylinders and then adjust the valves. I've seen some discussion of that in previous posts, but any links or tips on that process would be helpful. Thanks again for your reply - it's a great help.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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