I'm all in for replacing anything that can be accessed while in there.
By all means replace the front transmission seals. Being a 2 stage, there should be 2 seals, I would think.
While in there look all the release bearing mechanism over for wear.
Look at the flywheel surface for hot spots, glazing. Look at the flywheel starter gear for worn teeth.
If any freeze plugs on the back of the engine, now would be the time to replace them.
If the clutch kit doesn't come with an alignment tool, you'll want to find or make one. Making one is not that difficult on a lathe. It doesn't need splines, just sized to fit the ID of the splines and the pilot bearing. Trying to stab a dual clutch without an alignment tool is near impossible, and an invitation for damage to the new clutch if forced. I like to test fit the discs on the splines first, just to be sure they will go and slide freely. Some dual clutches require an initial adjustment once assembled.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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