Posted by Steve@Advance on June 01, 2019 at 19:44:31 from (66.169.147.211):
In Reply to: Super C is stalling posted by JohnV2000 on June 01, 2019 at 16:48:39:
Time to do some basic diagnostics.
Always diagnose before taking action! Lots of people start throwing parts at it first. All that does is waste money and complicate the diagnosis.
Chances are you have either an ignition or fuel delivery problem.
Take a look at the spark plugs. They should be gaped at .025", should be a light tan color, not sticky black, or bridged with carbon.
Next take a look inside the distributor. Look at the condition of the points. They should be relatively flat across the contact area, a clean gray color, with no black/blue heat discoloration. Check the gap, with the rub block on top of one of the shaft lobes, the gap should be .020".
Check the centrifugal advance, the rotor should turn a few degrees one way, and spring back when released.
Check the shaft for side play. It should have very little play, any side movement will cause the point gap to change. If the bushings are worn, a rebuilt distributor will be needed, or convert it to electronic ignition. The conversion kit will work with a worn distributor.
Finally, check the spark quality at the plug end of each wire. You can make a spark tester with an old spark plug. Bend the electrode back or break it off. Remove one wire at a time, attach the tester to the plug wire, lay the base against something metal for a ground. Start the engine and watch the spark. It should have a strong blue spark across the test plug. Repeat for each wire. If any are weak or no spark, revisit the distributor. Look at the inside of the cap for carbon tracking, check the rotor, check the center post for good contact. Look at each plug wire, if carbon wires they may be bad, wire wires can have failing insulation.
Once the ignition system is satisfactory, go to the fuel system. Important to do it in that order, ignition first, then fuel. You don't want to be testing for spark with fuel spilling!
There is a small pipe plug in the bottom of the carb bowl. With the engine off, fuel valve on, remove the plug, be ready to catch the flow in a clean glass. There should be a full flow, then slow as the bowl empties out, but continue to trickle, not slow to a stop or drip.
Look at what was caught. If it's cloudy or water on the bottom, if dirty, rust chunks, the same will be in the tank and in the carb bowl. It will need the tank removed and rinsed out with E85 if you can find it.
The carb is simple, don't be afraid of it. Usually they can be taken off, eased apart, cleaned up and good to go. Just work over a clean area so anything dropped can be found. Take your time, take pictures. There are procedures, parts views, theory of operation on the web.
If you don't get good flow, take the fuel line loose from the carb. There are generally 3 screen filters on a gravity system. A screen inside the tank, a screen above the water separator bowl, and a screen inside the inlet fitting at the carb. Be sure all are clean and free flowing before blaming the carb itself. If an inline filter has been added, that could be the problem. Inline filters generally don't work well with gravity systems, too restrictive. If you want to use an inline filter, be prepared to change it often.
Hope this helps. Take your time, use your resources. Lots of Youtube videos how to do carb work, ignition tune up, etc.
You can do this, these old tractors were designed to be field serviceable with basic tools and basic mechanical knowledge. Part of the satisfaction of having one is to be able to do your own work. Be very careful trying to hire anything done on it. Chances are any dealership will turn their nose up at it, or turn it over to the worst mechanic in the shop that has no clue if the computer won't connect to it!
Let us know, keep asking, keep knocking, we'll walk you through it!
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