The solenoid valve behind the carb, does it stop vacuum to the vacuum advance under certain conditions, as in only when in high gear? Don't know what they were thinking, but if so that is a performance/mileage killer.
Bypass it, take the vacuum straight off the carb, either ported or manifold, which ever runs best. If the distributor hasn't been gone through lately, take it out, disassemble it, inspect the weights, the pivots, the springs... All that stuff requires maintenance to stay right. You can buy weight kits, springs, bushings, adjustable vacuum advance, play around with it, it will make a lot of diference when it's right.
Q jet is the finest carb Detroit ever made! Fully tuneable, easy to understand. If it hasn't been adjusted for the headers, it's too lean. some thinner metering rods, bigger jets, different rod spring, lots of things can be changed to fine tune it.
Whatever you do, DON'T let anyone talk you into replacing it with a Holly! Gas leaking garbage out of the box!!!
If you are going to make this a reliable truck, something that is going to start after sitting a few months, look into one of the throttle body injection systems. They are great, easily tuned, better mileage, no choke problems or cold natured start up, much more compatible with ethanol gas than any carb.
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Today's Featured Article - Madison's County - by Anthony West. Philip Madison has been a good friend of mine for quite some time. He has patiently suffered my incessant chit chat on the subject of tractors for longer than I care to remember, and on many occasions he has put himself out, dropped what ever it was he was doing, to come and lend a hand cranking handles, or loading a find onto a trailer. Although he himself has never actually owned or restored a tractor, he was always enthusiastic and always around helping with other peoples projects.
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