ALL great advice as usual, but just because a tractor has a loader on it, for example a Ford 3000, doesn't make it a good fit for me. Ive seen many tractors that have loaders on them and you are buying a huge headache, for the very reasons mentioned above. So it stands to reason, that since there are some good fits for the 4000 and loaders that work, next spring, I could possible go that direction. When a budget is involved, I'd rather buy the right tractor now and add a loader later, than buy a tractor with a loader on it and the front axle, steer box and other items are worn and costly.
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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