yes that is true. I did not do a valve job on it. it had 3 stuck valves so I pulled the head and cleaned the guides out and cleaned valves and seats. things looked reasonably good. could use 2 new seats but I want to try this tractor out first. so many people say just loosen the valves by tapping then or prying them up makes no sense. the guides were full of rust had to pound them out and even tried putting them back in for my curiosity and they were stiff. I brushed the guides and cleaned them with brake clean. I gave the valves a light lapping just to make sure. then oiled the stems with atf. and now they are actually a little looser than I like. but it will run. will do a complete head job after I see if the tractor is worth it. my dad used to say hopeless case. he was strictly ih. when doing a new valve job no need to use the fuel test. valve seats are ground to 45 degree's and the valves to 44 degree's. this interference angle gives a good seal and no lapping is done. all lapping is for is to make sure the valve seals... its not for taking the place of valve grinding.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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