The diode, light, or resistor in line from #1 pin to the on/off switch is to prevent engine from continuing to run when switch is turned off.
They have no effect in preventing battery discharge when the switch is turned off.
Check to see that the wire from the #1 pin goes to the switched (coil side) of the ignition switch. If it is on the always hot side it will keep the alternator turned on when engine is off and cause battery drain. #2 pin can connect to alternator output or other hot battery connection.
If switch is wired correct, suspect a shorted diode or other problem in the alternator. Take to a parts house and have it checked.
To change from Ammeter to volt meter, connect wires from both sides of the ammeter together. Install the volt meter, connect ground post of meter to tractor frame and positive side of volt meter to output of the ignition switch
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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