I guess its "possible" in translation and in labeling things might? get confusing if different countries are involved ? Another important and limiting factor when it comes to deciding how much total (coil + ballast) ignition circuit resistance is required is to consider the current the ignition points much pass and switch. Typically on many old tractors (sure depends on points design and construction) the current the points must switch is limited to around 3 to 4 max amps, otherwise they will burn prematurely.
THEREFORE at 12 volts if there's 3 ohms of total (coil + ballast) resistance the points current would be 12/3 = 4 amps, while if at 12 volts the total (coil + ballast) resistance were 4 ohms, the current would be 12/4 = 3 amps. As far as ballast resistance, if you wanted a 50/50 voltage divider and used 12 volts as the baseline (higher if charged) and wanted to drop 6 volts across a 6 volt coil and 6 across a ballast, the coils LV primary resistance would be the same as the ballast resistance. However duty cycle and points dwell all play into this equation, and battery voltage will vary subject to temperature, load and state of charge, and charging parameters etc. etc.
Coils (design, voltage and resistance etc) for certain cars or tractors or motorcycles or lawn mowers are certainly NOT all the same...…...
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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