Okay, went back and see I didn't make the original draw down clear at all- that was due to the old getting messed up, so it basically wouldn't shut off. Current was "on" whenever the battery was hooked up. That part I got fixed. The wiring I have is EXACTLY like the diagram except I prefer not to use an "idiot" light and use a momentary push button switch on all my tractors. Had some problems with the idiot lights over the years, so I do it physically and it works for me. However, that switch hasn't been wired in on this one yet. I can trigger the alt to start charging by brushing the #1 wire against the Batt stud on alt.
So I'm down to 2 questions. 1- A solid 12v between the Pos batt post and terminal may not indicate a draw? It can be 12v at almost no amps? 2- Taking the Alt out of the wiring system deletes that draw, so it must be the alt? I have another known good Alt here I can try, just have to change pulleys. Guess that's next. Thanks!
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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