WHY are you even considering replacing that valve when most likely all it needs is a seal ring?
Whatever you replace it with won't mount as compactly, won't be as convenient, and will require an external return hose.
I have owned two loaders with that valve and put seals in both, with success.
Trouble is it's been over 20 years and I can't remember if the are a simple O-ring or a "chevron" type seal. Either way, they will be available by dimension from a hydraulic supplier.
I currently have a similar loader for an 8N Ford that's not mounted, to which the P.O. cobbled on a generic valve as you are proposing, looks like HECK compared to what's supposed to be there, wish I could find a used, correct valve!
Take the 4-bolt cover off of the bottom, the spools can be withdrawn downward, remove one at a time and/or see SURE to put them back in the same bore.
Once you have one out you can determine the exact seal rings needed.
Care is required putting the spool back in so as not to cut the new seal rings.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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